Journal of Student Research 2019

Journal of Student Research

Tradition and Modernization: the Survival of the Japanese Kimono

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influence the cost of the kimono (Inoue, 1999.).

By the Meiji era (1868-1912), silk became a common fabric choice as government restrictions lifted and the introduced western machinery. Although silk became readily available, cotton was still the main fabric choice as it was easier to use, care for and cheaper for the masses as many still sewed their own (Liddell, 1989). Although this one roll of fabric can create the outer kimono, it is not the full ensemble. The primary ensemble and framework consist of an undergarment called a nagajuban that is then covered by the outer layer with a thick obi belt and string securing the outfit. In addition to the clothing, tabi socks, ankle high white socks that separates the big toe from the others, worn with thick sole sandals called zori complete the primary ensemble (Ito, 2012). As this is the primary ensemble, companies, and designers are unwilling to change the basic, but to adhere to the masses and modern society, the parts of the kimono that changed are the design and the technique used. To create an imitation of the traditional art the western printing technique is used, cutting the cost of manufacturing down by $100 or more, depending on the original art form (Demetriou, 2010). Although techniques are cut, Japanese motifs are found throughout the garment and modern fashion. In Japanese culture and society, many motifs that represent different aspects of what the Japanese believe is in the designs of the kimono. Additionally, they are in many cultural references such as art, tradition, paintings, accessories, architecture, clothing, music and a person’s daily life. These motifs mainly represent luck, prosperity, the cycle of life and social class. To show a person’s social class, they are embroidered into the clothing or used as a family’s crest. The symbols have been used since ancient times to modern day society as much of Japan’s societal structure revolves around a person’s family name and class structure. Although much has changed with modernization, throughout Japanese culture and society, the motifs are noticeable. The motifs go hand in hand with the Japanese aesthetic of nature and its correspondence with the spiritual realm. Some of these motifs are the sun, moon, cherry blossoms (Sakura), butterflies, lotus, folding fan, chrysanthemum, daruma, cranes, plum, mountains, clouds, gourd, waves, and koi. The choice of these motifs is that these are the ones most seen throughout history and into modern day society not only in motif formats but also through superstition. Relating the motif to Shintoism and Buddhism, as both religions teach the importance of living with nature. The reason for this is that each motif when it came about, corresponded with Japan’s history and what society is feeling, wishes to express or deem significant. Overall, although western culture and modernization have taken over most of the Japanese Spiritual Motifs in Japanese Culture

Upper image: Japanese kimono weaving process Lower image: Kata-yuzen, Stencil dyeing Right image: Formal female kimono for different ages (Kimono and textiles, n.d.).

Silk kimono fabric for kata-yuzen (McNulty, 2017) Table of Contents

Table of Contents