Journal of Student Research 2019

Journal of Student Research 144 century. Today, kimonos are mostly worn by women on special occasions as it can be too expensive to buy and care for. According to Danielle Demetriou (2010), Even if a formal occasion does demand a kimono, they are likely to put on machine-made version - much cheaper than a traditional handmade kimono which costs between 180,000 and 1 million yen ($1,600-$8,890) (qtd in Danielle, 2010, p 8). The most expensive kimono is made of silk while the cheaper ones are of cotton or hemp; the use of synthetic fibers not recommended due to the properties and the techniques used in dying the fabric. As kimonos have gone out of fashion, the number of companies making them in Tokyo has shrunk - dwindling from 217 [companies] to [only] 24 over the past 30 years. Even in Kyoto, the historic center for traditional Japanese culture, there are now just 64 kimono makers left (qtd in Danielle, 2010, p 9). The kimono industry is declining due to the lack of demand, and the lack of craftsman. During the Edo period (1603-1868) with new laws, regulations and international movement, the kimono became simpler, with less layers and fabric; but it was not until after World War II that the kimono industry was at its peak. According to the Ministry of Economy, Trade, and Industry, in 1975 the industry had a market size of 1.8 trillion yen or 17 billion US dollar (AFP, 2018). However, according to a survey conducted by Yano Research Institute, in 2008 it had shrunk to 406.5 billion yen and in 2016, 278.5 billion yen, (AFP, 2018). Although the demand is declining among the Japanese populace, the demand amongst foreigners is increasing using rental kimonos; these are mainly priced under $200 but owned individually can cost up to $2,000-$3,000. To many kimono businesses and designers, the idea of expansion is not the focus, but the spread of culture and preservation of the artform. The preservation of culture globally happened when it was introduced to the world market through New York Fashion Week as an haute couture 5 garment by designer Hiromi Asai. When introducing it to the western market, Hiromi Asai did not change the shape or traditional wear as she wished to keep the tradition alive (Mcnearney, 2016). This example is an excellent concept to gain the attention of not only the fashion world but also the world as people begin to understand how traditions are changing with time and movement of the world. Japanese designers are showcasing the kimono, craft, and tradition to the

Tradition and Modernization: the Survival of the Japanese Kimono world. Japanese kimono businesses are focusing on increasing the knowledge and the kimono in the local market of Japan. Chiso, founded in 1555 Kyoto, is one of Japan’s largest and oldest textile and kimono store, dedicated to “using history and tradition as its guide to meet the shifting of trends and tastes over the years” (qtd in Chiso, n.d.). The company makes about 22.57 million USD per year in the business of production, sales, planning, and production of various textiles. The company also has a Chiso Gallery that shows a collection of historical kimonos and art, in addition to restoration and repair services. Another business that operates in the kimono industry is, Tokyo Yamaki Co., Ltd., founded in 1961 is a retail and kimono distribution store that is moving with the times as they find success in recycling kimonos and become more environmentally friendly (Tansu-ya, n.d.). With the focus of modernization, rentals, and resales of used kimonos, according to Iida (2017), as of 2016 the company racked up a total of about 44 million USD of sales. As both companies are generally about the kimono, the way that their business operate focuses on different perspectives. As Chiso aim towards haute couture , tradition, the continuation and perseverance of Japanese art; Tokyo Yamaki Co. aim towards modernization, and mass production while being environmentally friendly. Although the kimono is a complicated garment that many of the younger generation do not want to concern themselves over, with fashion and the yukata, the industry is stable. The yukata, the summer kimono is not as intricate and detail-oriented as the kimono, it mostly consists of one or two layers, obi and the geta (Japanese block sandals). Through the simplicity of the design, it is more comfortable to make and wear which many of the younger generation adhere to since the world is moving at a fast pace. However, the older generation hope that with the yukata as an interest for the younger generation, tradition is preserve as the yukata is easier for movement and change throughout the fashionable seasons. The yukata can be adaptable to whatever

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Male and female in yukatas, summer kimono, in Harajuku, Japan (Japanese yukata fashion in Harajuku, 2017)

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Expensive, fashionable clothing that is mainly produced by leading fashion houses. Sometimes they are the first change makers of fashion.

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